Something Scrumptious - story and photos by Jennie Guido


Up Highway 61—Papa Roc's—Cleveland, Mississippi



   For the Rocconi family, Papa Roc’s is more than just a family business. What her two uncles started as one of the only country stores in Cleveland, Mississippi, in 1942, Rita Rocconi has transformed into a genuine Italian restaurant by night and coffee house by day with an amazing “at home” atmosphere.
   When I sat down with Rocconi, her mother and sister joined in the conversation to tell me all out Papa Roc’s. Rita’s mother explained, “After the two older brothers went off to war, my husband took over the business and served farmers from all over every day.”
They all explained, “The family was raised in this building. Our home is right down the street, and we could walk down to see when dad would be coming home.”
   In October of 2010, Rocconi decided to open up the coffee house, The Bean Counter, which had once been on Court Street in Cleveland, inside what is now Papa Roc’s. “I always wanted to have an Italian restaurant to feature our family recipes, and this building had the kitchen space I needed.”
   The eatery gets its name from her father, whom many called Papa Roc. “We are a family-oriented place,” Rocconi said, “using my grandmother’s recipes that we make fresh everyday.” The majority of the staff and cooks are family members that know just how much work goes into each recipe and each dish.
   As we made our way through dinner, something that I found interesting was the bread that was brought to the table. Rocconi explained that it is called gracia, a classic Italian bread with recipes unique to each Italian family’s taste and tradition. It is made from an easy recipe but one with a time-consuming process to complete. “My nephew makes it for us,” she commented, “and there are so many steps to make it right.”
   Also, the leftover gracia at the end of the night is ground and mixed with seasonings—paprika, garlic powder, salt, pepper, and parmesan cheese to taste—to make the restaurant’s signature bread crumbs. “Any dish that is breaded features our homemade bread crumbs” Rocconi added.
   At the start of the meal, we ordered several appetizers to sample, including the Fried Calamari and the Ba-Da-Bing Shrimp. The shrimp is fried and tossed in a subtly spicy aioli sauce on a bed of lettuce. This is definitely one of the most unique dishes I’ve ever had and a fast favorite for me. Also, the Bruschette Bread makes for a fabulous start for the whole table to enjoy. This dish is focaccia bread with sun-dried tomatoes and pesto topped with mozzarella cheese and baked to bubbly perfection.
   When it came time to order entrées, I had no idea which option to pick. I have eaten the delicious salmon before, which is grilled and topped with a tomato-basil vinaigrette, so I decided to go with a traditional Italian dish this time. The rest of the table ordered dishes like Chicken Parmigiana, Eggplant Parmigiana, a meat and spinach filled Manicotti, and the Baked Ziti. Finally, I decided on the baked Ravioli, which was beef filled, baked in the Rocconi’s homemade sauce, and covered in mozzarella cheese. Each dish was perfection, and not too much was said after everyone took the first bite.
   With so many choices on the menu, it is hard to have a favorite that you order every visit. However, Rocconi said that a favorite for many of the customers is the Manicotti, and she added, “Most people are used to a cheese-filled pasta, so this is an interesting twist to an Italian favorite.” Some of her favorites include the Ba-Da-Bing Shrimp or any dish with the Alfredo sauce, which is close to heaven with its creaminess.
   Located on Highway 8 heading west, Papa Roc’s is open every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday night for dinner; and the coffee house, The Bean Counter, is open Monday through Friday and features an Italian dish for lunch every day. Along with a vast sandwich menu, the pizzas are very popular and to die for.
   If I were to suggest a favorite selection or two to order, I wouldn’t know where to start. There are so many options and each is a safe and tasty bet. However, the Ba-Da-Bing Shrimp appetizer is a must each time you visit Papa Roc’s.